The City of Bristol's Garden Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Fruit in Urban Spaces
Every quarter of an hour or so, an ageing diesel train pulls into a spray-painted stop. Close by, a police siren pierces the near-constant road noise. Daily travelers hurry past collapsing, ivy-draped fencing panels as storm clouds gather.
This is maybe the last place you anticipate to find a perfectly formed vineyard. However James Bayliss-Smith has managed to 40 mature vines sagging with round mauve grapes on a sprawling garden plot situated between a line of 1930s houses and a commuter railway just north of Bristol downtown.
"I've noticed individuals concealing illegal substances or whatever in the shrubbery," says Bayliss-Smith. "Yet you simply continue ... and continue caring for your vines."
The cameraman, forty-six, a filmmaker who runs a fermented beverage company, is not the only urban winemaker. He has organized a loose collective of cultivators who produce vintage from several discreet urban vineyards tucked away in private yards and allotments across Bristol. It is too clandestine to possess an formal title yet, but the collective's messaging chat is named Vineyard Dreams.
Urban Wine Gardens Across the World
To date, Bayliss-Smith's plot is the only one registered in the Urban Vineyards Association's upcoming global directory, which features better-known city vineyards such as the 1,800 plants on the hillsides of the French capital's historic artistic district neighbourhood and more than 3,000 grapevines overlooking and inside the Italian city. Based in Italy non-profit association is at the forefront of a initiative reviving city vineyards in historic wine-producing nations, but has identified them throughout the globe, including cities in East Asia, South Asia and Central Asia.
"Grape gardens help cities stay greener and more diverse. They protect open space from construction by creating long-term, yielding agricultural units within cities," explains the organization's leader.
Similar to other vintages, those created in urban areas are a result of the earth the plants thrive in, the unpredictability of the weather and the individuals who tend the fruit. "A bottle of wine embodies the beauty, local spirit, landscape and history of a urban center," adds the spokesperson.
Unknown Polish Grapes
Back in Bristol, Bayliss-Smith is in a urgent timeline to harvest the grapevines he cultivated from a cutting left in his allotment by a Polish family. If the precipitation arrives, then the birds may take advantage to attack once more. "This is the enigmatic Eastern European variety," he comments, as he cleans damaged and mouldy berries from the glistering clusters. "We don't really know what variety they are, but they are certainly hardy. Unlike noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and other famous European varieties – you need not spray them with chemicals ... this is possibly a special variety that was developed by the Eastern Bloc."
Collective Efforts Across the City
The other members of the collective are additionally making the most of sunny interludes between showers of autumn rain. At a rooftop garden overlooking the city's glistening harbour, where medieval merchant vessels once bobbed with barrels of wine from France and the Iberian peninsula, one cultivator is harvesting her dark berries from approximately fifty vines. "I love the smell of the grapevines. It is so reminiscent," she says, stopping with a basket of grapes slung over her shoulder. "It recalls the fragrance of southern France when you open the vehicle windows on holiday."
Grant, fifty-two, who has devoted more than 20 years working for charitable groups in conflict zones, inadvertently inherited the grape garden when she returned to the UK from Kenya with her household in 2018. She experienced an overwhelming duty to maintain the vines in the garden of their recently acquired property. "This plot has already endured three different owners," she explains. "I really like the concept of environmental care – of handing this down to future caretakers so they continue producing from the soil."
Terraced Gardens and Traditional Production
A short walk away, the final two members of the group are busily laboring on the steep inclines of the local river valley. Jo Scofield has cultivated over 150 vines perched on ledges in her expansive property, which descends towards the muddy River Avon. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she notes, gesturing towards the tangled vineyard. "They can't believe they are viewing grapevine lines in a city street."
Currently, Scofield, 60, is picking bunches of deep violet Rondo grapes from rows of plants slung across the cliff-side with the help of her child, her family member. Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has contributed to Netflix's nature programming and television network's gardening shows, was inspired to cultivate vines after observing her neighbor's grapevines. She has learned that hobbyists can make intriguing, pleasurable natural wine, which can command prices of upwards of seven pounds a glass in the increasing quantity of wine bars focusing on minimal-intervention vintages. "It's just incredibly satisfying that you can actually create good, natural wine," she says. "It is quite fashionable, but really it's reviving an traditional method of producing vintage."
"During foot-stomping the fruit, the various natural microorganisms come off the skins and enter the liquid," says the winemaker, ankle deep in a container of tiny stems, pips and red liquid. "That's how vintages were made traditionally, but industrial wineries introduce preservatives to kill the natural cultures and then incorporate a commercially produced yeast."
Challenging Conditions and Inventive Approaches
A few doors down sprightly retiree Bob Reeve, who motivated Scofield to plant her grapevines, has gathered his companions to harvest Chardonnay grapes from the 100 plants he has arranged precisely across multiple levels. Reeve, a Lancashire-born physical education instructor who taught at Bristol University cultivated an interest in wine on regular visits to France. But it is a difficult task to grow Chardonnay grapes in the humidity of the valley, with cooling tides sweeping in and out from the nearby estuary. "I wanted to produce French-style vintages here, which is somewhat ambitious," says Reeve with a smile. "Chardonnay is slow-maturing and particularly vulnerable to fungal infections."
"I wanted to make Burgundian wines in this environment, which is rather ambitious"
The unpredictable local weather is not the only problem encountered by winegrowers. The gardener has been compelled to install a barrier on